Want to be a better cyclist? Just ride. Every time you turn the pedals, you naturally improve a little. But of course, we can all do with a little more help. Here is a generous helping of wisdom from the most skilled and knowledgeable coaches, physiologists, and cyclists in the world.

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(Brave the Woods)

SILENCE! Quiet all those mysterious ticks, squeaks, rattles, and miscellaneous noises

NO. 27 If you hear a metallic click during every crank revolution, grease the pedal threads (and tighten firmly when reinstalling).

NO. 28 A squeak is from a pedal rather than the chain if it occurs at the same place on each stroke. For conventional pedals, spray lubrication where the cage and body connect. For clipless pedals, clean all cleat contact points, then apply a silicone spray to these points and wipe off the excess. Also make sure the cleats are tight.

NO. 29 A chirp is almost always from the chain—it is crying out for lubrication.

NO. 30 If a chain clicks, it has a tight link. Turn the crank backward by hand and watch the chain as it winds through the rear derailleur pulleys. The inflexible link will jump. Grasp the chain on either side of the stiff link, bend it laterally to loosen it, then apply lube.

NO. 31 If the handlebar or stem creaks during sprints or climbs, tighten the binder bolts (in front). If the noise persists, loosen the binder bolts and spray a light lubricant between the bar and stem, wipe it away to leave a thin film, then re-tighten firmly.

NO. 32 Buzzing occurs when a cage, frame pump, or some other add-on vibrates, or when a cable housing quivers against the frame. To find the culprit, touch these areas while riding, then tighten, shorten, reroute, or tape as necessary.

NO. 33 Rattles and jingles often come from a seat bag. Secure items with rubber bands or rags.

NO. 34 Thumping is usually felt as much as heard. Common causes: dented rims and bulging or improperly seated tyres.

NO. 35 Clicks during out-of-saddle climbing and sprinting sometimes come from two spokes rubbing. Put a drop of oil on each spoke intersection.

NO. 36 Never trust your ear. Frames transmit noises. You might swear a sound is coming from your cranks, but it could be your saddle rails. Check all possible points.

NO. 37
When you start to feel stressed and overwhelmed by a hard pace, try this breathing technique: Instead of actively drawing air into the lungs then passively letting it out (our normal pattern), push the air out and let it naturally flow back in. Bonus: Because of how you activate your lungs to do this, it also helps you get into a low riding position and maintain a flatter back.

NO. 38
On descents, your bike is much more stable when you’re pedaling than when you’re coasting.

NO. 39
Whenever you make the transition from standing to sitting, gain a few free inches by pushing the bike forward as you drop to the saddle.

NO. 40
Put your left foot down when stopping to prevent greasy chainring “tattoos” on your right calf.

NO. 41
Normally, applying the front brake harder than the rear is the most effective way to stop. On slick surfaces, however, braking hard up front invites a front-wheel skid, which will almost always result in a crash. Better to emphasize the rear brake. It’s much easier to keep things under control if it’s the back wheel that momentarily locks and slides.

NO. 42
Always ride with your elbows bent and your arms and shoulders relaxed. This prevents fatigue caused by muscle tension. It also allows your arms to absorb shock instead of transmitting it to your body.

NO. 43
When taking the lead position in a paceline, as the former leader drops to the back, don’t accelerate. Maintain the same speed as when drafting so you don’t cause gaps to open between the other riders.

NO. 44
If a headwind finally defeats you, don’t let it ruin your day. Accept the slower speed, shift to an easy gear, and work on your pedaling form and your ability to stay relaxed. (And don’t feel bad that you pooped out: In terms of pedaling effort, a cyclist who travels 30 kph through calm air would have to work about twice as hard to maintain that speed into a mere 15-kph headwind.)

(Joe Pugliese)

NO. 45
To build your confidence in a paceline, start by staying one bike length from the rider in front of you, then gradually close the gap as your experience and ability increase. Once you can ride comfortably within a wheel’s length, you’ll be getting most of the benefit of drafting, which can reduce by up to 35 percent the effort it takes to maintain a given speed.
NO. 46
To make a wet corner less treacherous, make your turn as shallow as possible. Set up wide so you enter from a shallow angle, steer straight through the turn, then exit wide. In effect, this transforms one tight turn into two shallow ones.

NO. 47
Occasionally take one hand off the bar and shake it. This relaxes your shoulder and elbow and encourages blood flow to your hand to prevent numbness.

NO. 48
When riding one-handed for any reason, grip the bar on top, next to the stem. If your hand is farther out (such as on the brake-lever hood), the bike is more likely to veer dangerously should the front wheel hit a rock, bump, or pothole.

NO. 49
To stave off muscle fatigue during hard, sustained pedaling, learn to “float” each leg every three or four strokes. Simply let your foot fall without exerting force.

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